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kottke.org posts about fashion

The 2000s according to Wikipedia

Wikipedia gets into the 2000s roundup game with a main article and a number of topic-based summaries, including fashion, film, and sports. From the fashion page:

In hip hop, the throwback jersey and baggy pants (popular in the ’90s to 2004) look was replaced with the more “grown man” look which was highly popularized by Kanye West around the year 2005.

If you say so. More interesting is the chart of the 20 highest grossing movies from the film page (the top 3 each grossed $1 billion+ worldwide):

1. The Lord of the Rings: The Return of the King
2. Pirates of the Caribbean: Dead Man’s Chest
3. The Dark Knight
4. Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone
5. Pirates of the Caribbean: At World’s End
6. Harry Potter and the Order of the Phoenix
7. Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince
8. The Lord of the Rings: The Two Towers
9. Shrek 2
10. Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire
11. Spider-Man 3
12. Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets
13. Ice Age: Dawn of the Dinosaurs
14. The Lord of the Rings: The Fellowship of the Ring
15. Finding Nemo
16. Star Wars Episode III: Revenge of the Sith
17. Transformers: Revenge of the Fallen
18. Spider-Man
19. Shrek the Third
20. Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban

Only one movie on the list was made from an original screenplay: Finding Nemo…the rest are all sequels or adapted from books, TV shows, amusement park rides, etc. Out of the top 50, only nine are not franchise films.


Book cover handbags

Olympia Le-Tan makes handbags โ€” actually hand-embroidered rectangular box clutches โ€” that look like book covers.

Olympia Le Tan

Update: Rebound Designs makes handbags made out of real books. Here’s Pride and Prejudice. (thx, pj)


Dressing like a grownup

The first episode of a new web series “about dressing like a grownup” called Put This On is about denim. Denim like a jean. Put This On is hosted by Jesse Thorn of The Sound of Young America and Adam Lisagor, the web’s loneliest sandwich.


Futuristic fashion, as predicted

A video clip of what fashion designers in the 1930s predicted that people would be wearing in the year 2000. While the predictions for the women only accurately depict Lady GaGa’s wardrobe, the designers of the past were slightly closer to the mark when it came to men’s fashion:

“He’ll be fitted with a radio, telephone, and containers for coins, keys, and candy for cuties.”

By which they must have meant credit cards.

Update: FASHION magazine responded to this video. It turns out that it was eerily accurate, with designs like Alexander Wang and Marc Jacobs parading futuristic wares that are perfectly current.

(thx, gary)


A little Grace Kelly

I love this shot of a woman in Milan from the Sartorialist.

Sartorialist Milan

As Schuman notes, there’s a sense of style here that tons of expensive flashy clothes can’t compete with.

Update: On the other hand, this sort of thing has its charms.


The dashing young men of fashion (and Dumb Donald)

Tommy Ton of Jak & Jil Blog caught the lineup of models before they walked the runway for Thom Browne.

Thom Browne models

This photo alone could be the springboard for an entire novel.


MJ tshirts are the new Obama tshirt

A collection of Michael Jackson tribute shirts worn to the recent Spike Lee-hosted birthday party for Jackson.


The history of Levi’s jeans

A Continuous Lean has an interview with Lynn Downey, an archivist and historian for Levi Strauss.

Well, [Levi’s] started just as a regional thing, we had the lock on the West and other brands had their own consumer segments. I believe Lee had the South sort of sewn up, and there were some other brands, I think Lee included, that were known in New York. It’s funny, you could always tell where someone was from; if they said “jeans,” then they were from the west, if they were from the East they called them “dungarees,” you could immediately tell where someone was from.

Update: Here’s part two of the interview.


Game Boy bling

I am kind of in love with this photo.

Game Boy Bling Bling


T-shirt designs on cakes

Threadcakes is a contest that turns Threadless t-shirt designs into cakes. Ooh, do this one. (via waxy)

Update: Yes! (thx, andy)


Gradient jeans

Jak & Jill Raven

I love this photo from JAK & JIL BLOG. The lighting, the clothes, and the person wearing them are all perfect. Do click through to see it larger.


How to get The Sartorialist to shoot you

A handy flowchart: how to get your photo taken by The Sartorialist. If you’re a man and you have pants: “cuff ‘em, roll ‘em, make ‘em too short”.


The September Issue trailer

The September Issue is the much-anticipated documentary that follows Anna Wintour and her staff at Vogue through the process of creating the magazine’s September issue, AKA the world’s thickest magazine issue.

An apt demonstration that an editor/curator’s main job is saying no to almost everything.


Rendered fashion

The clothes from Irina Shaposhnikova’s Crystallographica show look as though they were created with 3-D rendering software but haven’t quite finished rendering yet.

Irina Shaposhnikova

(via today and tomorrow)


Gay Talese spends $2800 on shoes

And he’s got several pairs of them. In this video, the noted writer shows off his suits and talks about “dressing up for the story” as a young reporter.


Hermes breeding its own crocodiles

This report from Vogue has inspired a new tag: Not The Onion.

The recession seemed like a far-removed concept for Hermes this morning, as the luxury retailer announced it is breeding its own crocodiles to keep up with the demand for its iconic handbags.

(via @bldgblog)


The Uniform Project

For The Uniform Project, Sheena Matheiken is wearing the same dress every day for an entire year. Each day, she “reinvents the dress with layers, accessories and all kinds of accouterments”.

How do you design a dress that can be worn all year around? The mastermind behind the uniform dress is my friend and designer, Eliza Starbuck. We took inspiration from one of my staple dresses, improving upon the shape and fit to add on some seasonal versatility. The dress is designed so it can be worn both ways, front and back, and also as an open tunic. It’s made from a durable, breathable cotton, good for New York summers and good for layering in cooler seasons. With deep hidden pockets to appease my deep aversion for carrying purses.

Looking through the photos so far, you can see how versatile the dress is and how clever Matheiken is in accessorizing it. (via ben fry)

Update: Alex Martin did a similar project back in 2005 called Brown Dress.

So, here’s the deal โ€” I made this dress and I wore it every day for a year. I made one small, personal attempt to confront consumerism by refusing to change my dress for 365 days. In this performance, I challenged myself to reject the economic system that pushes over-consumption, and the bill of goods that has been sold, especially to women, about what makes a person good, attractive and interesting. Clothes are a big part of this image, and the expectation in time, effort, and financial investment is immense.

From 1991-2002 as part of her A-Z Uniforms project, Andrea Zittel made herself a new dress and wore it for six straight months.

Because I was tired of the tyranny of constant variety, I began a six-month uniform project. Starting in 1991 I would design and make one perfect dress for each season, and would then wear that dress every day for six months. Although utilitarian in principle, I often found that there was a strong element of fantasy or emotional need invested in each season’s design. The experiment as a whole worked quite well, especially since dreaming up the next season’s design helped relieve any monotony that might have occurred from wearing the same dress every day.

Some of Zittel’s dresses are pictured here. Has The Onion done a piece about the guy in marketing’s art piece where he wears brown khakis and a blue button-down shirt everyday for 20 years? (thx, jon & amanda)


Optical illusion shoes

It took me at least 30 seconds of looking at these shoes to realize that the woman wasn’t floating two inches off the ground and what I thought were shadows are actually heels. Even knowing the secret, the effect switches for me like a Necker cube or the spinning dancer.


Emergency cuff links

If you have two pair of small binder clips:

Binder Clips

then you also have a pair of emergency cuff links.


Rules of style

I don’t agree with everything on Scott Sternberg’s rules of style list, but a couple of his points are pretty interesting. I’ll spot you this one:

Whenever you start a new project or a new job, don’t tell anyone what you’re working on, because it can change direction a million times and once you start telling the world about it, you get constrained by your own mouth.

but you’ll have to find the others on your own. (via andrea inspired)

Update: A recent study has indicated that people who don’t share their goals are more successful in achieving them.

Researchers report that when dealing with identity goals โ€” that is, the aspirations that define who we are โ€” sharing our intentions doesn’t necessarily motivate achievement. On the contrary, a series of experiments shows that when others take notice of our plans, performance is compromised because we gain “a premature sense of completeness” about the goal.

(thx, sam)


Cool bowler camera bag

This SLR camera bag that looks like a bowling bag seems like the sort of thing that some of you may “dig”.


Happy hour

Just in time for Friday afternoon, a cedar beer cozy and a collection of beer sweaters. Wash it down with some beer soap.


The most stylish men

GQ slideshow of their picks for the 50 most stylish men.


Nerd Boyfriend

Nerd Boyfriend breaks down the wardrobes of the fashionably nerdy male, including those of Peter Sellers, Alistair Hennessey (from The Life Aquatic), Buster Bluth, and Sir Edmund Hillary. (via lonelysandwich)


High-style five-finger discount

An interesting profile of Kevahn Thorpe, who started shoplifting high fashion items when he was 16 years old and couldn’t manage to stop.

Kevahn, meanwhile, was arrested over and over โ€” always at department stores, he emphasizes, “never in no label stores,” like Prada, where the staff is perhaps more sensitive to the possibility that a young black kid drifting among the merchandise might be an up-and-coming entertainer or a rich private-schooler and not necessarily a thief. And by then, he was dressing for the occasion. As helpful salesclerks retrieved sneakers from the stockroom, he whisked the ones he wanted under a couch and played a kind of shell game with display models and shoeboxes. When he was caught, he pleaded down the petit-larceny charges to disorderly conduct, until a judge finally got fed up and sent him to Rikers Island for the first time, on a ten-day sentence.

Perhaps it’s easy to laugh Kevahn off as just being obsessed with fashion, but he’s also gotten caught stealing iPods and using stolen credit cards.


Lo Heads

Rapper/producer 88-Keys is a Lo Head, an obsessive collector and wearer of Ralph Lauren Polo clothing and accessories. He’s been wearing nothing but Polo every single day since 1993. This interview with rapper and Lo Head Rack-Lo functions as a sort of Lo Head manifesto.

A lot of street dudes have paved the way and paid a hefty price for all of you to even be able to rock Lo and all those other name brands as well. Other names like North Face, Benetton, Gucci, Spyder, Gortex, Louis Vutton and the list goes on - Lo-Life’s did it all first. So let me school ya’ll for a second. This Lo movement officially started in 1988. And even before 1988, the movement was in development. Have ya’ll ever heard of Ralphies Kids or USA (United Shoplifters Association), that’s the foundation right there. Those are basically the two crews that Rack-Lo united as Lo-Life’s to form voltron on the Hip Hop world. And a lot of you dudes probably weren’t even born then. So what the fuck are you really saying? So I’m just making it clear that if your going to rep that Lo shit and be apart of a fashion institution there’s a certain way to do it. Word, it rules and laws to this shit. This aint no fly by night shit where u wake up one morning and decide to rock Lo like Kayne West did. That shit there is a fairy tale a lot of heads are living.

Kanye defended his status as a Lo Head in the song Barry Bonds from his Graduation album.


Make a sweater from your pet’s fur

You can now get sweaters made from your dog’s fur or a handbag made from your cat’s fur…or hats, mittens, etc.


Draft Sully for Secretary of Transportation

Now available for sale on CafePress in men’s and women’s sizes:

Draft Sully t-shirt

The mayor gave Sully the key to the city for landing the airplane safely into the Hudson River but surely he deserves more…like a job in the Obama administration as the Secretary of Transportation (no offense to Mr. LaHood).


Bill Cunningham and Greta Garbo

Here are a pair of articles from 2002 on street fashion photographer Bill Cunningham, who currently plys his trade for the NY Times. (I love Cunningham’s On the Street dispatches.) The first is Bill on Bill, where the photographer recalls how he got interested in fashion and photography.

As a kid, I photographed people at ski resorts โ€” you know, when you got on the snow train and went up to New Hampshire. And I did parties. I worked as a stock boy at Bonwit Teller in Boston, where my family lived, and there was a very interesting woman, an executive, at Bonwit’s. She was sensitive and aware, and she said, “I see you outside at lunchtime watching people.” And I said, “Oh, yeah, that’s my hobby.” She said, “If you think what they’re wearing is wrong, why don’t you redo them in your mind’s eye.” That was really the first professional direction I received.

The second article is a collection of recollections of Cunningham from some of the people he has photographed.

He taught me how to tell a story with pictures and that it didn’t always involve the best image. I’d say to him, “But isn’t this a better photo?” And he’d say, “Yes, child, but this photo tells the story better.” For him, it wasn’t about the aesthetics of photography. It was about storytelling.

Both articles mention that Cunningham got his first street photography into the Times when he shot a photo of the famously reclusive Greta Garbo walking on Fifth Avenue. I couldn’t find Cunningham’s Garbo photo anywhere online so I tracked down the Times article and found only this poor scan:

Greta Garbo

Here’s another shot Cunningham made that same day which didn’t end up in the paper (Garbo’s got her hand over her face). Interestingly, street photos of Garbo were not particularly rare. Here are a selection from the 1980s, including several that feature Garbo in similar clothing. Many of them were taken by creepy paparazzo Ted Leyson, who stalked Garbo for more than 10 years in NYC. Leyson took what is believed to be the last photo of Garbo before she died in 1990.


More bush (not George W.)

In these tight times, more women are scaling back their pubic topiary activities and opting for a more natural look.