A tshirt featuring a subway map representation
A tshirt featuring a subway map representation of the human gastrointestinal system. (thx, sami)
Update: Oh, and I plumb forgot the Threadless Metropolitan Cardiac Authority tshirt. (thx, sam)
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kottke.org posts about fashion
Order your Dumbledore pride tshirts, now available
Order your Dumbledore pride tshirts, now available in rainbow “I always knew” and “Wizards Are Gay” varieties.
Hot in Japan: wearable hiding places.
Hot in Japan: wearable hiding places.
By holding the sheet open and stepping to the side of the road, she showed how a woman walking alone could elude pursuers — by disguising herself as a vending machine.
The manhole bag is my favorite…”a purse that can hide your valuables by unfolding to look like a round sewer cover”.
Lagerfeld Confidential is a documentary film about
Lagerfeld Confidential is a documentary film about Karl Lagerfeld, the first such film done with Lagerfeld’s authorization. It’s playing at Film Forum in NYC later this month.
Remember Dove’s Evolution video of a fashion
Remember Dove’s Evolution video of a fashion model going from drab to fabulous with the help of makeup and Photoshop? They’ve got a new video out called Onslaught in which we see the barrage of images that are directed at young girls each day. BTW, Dove’s parent company makes all sorts of products that may contibute to the problem that Dove is attacking here. (via debbie millman)
Jack Spade held an impromptu fashion show
Jack Spade held an impromptu fashion show in Bryant Park outside the giant tent where Fashion Week was happening, enlisting passersby to carry Jack Spade bags up and back on the sidewalk. Wonderful stuff. (via design observer)
Don’t tell me
The third paragraph from a New Yorker profile of Donatella Versace (not online):
The trouble began when, between appointments, Donatella repaired to an outdoor terrace to smoke. Seated at a wrought-iron table, she thumbed open a pack of “special DV Marlboro Reds” (so called because her staff in Milan is instructed to cover the customary “Smoking Kills” label on every pack with a sticker bearing a DV monogram in medieval script).
…and that’s as far as I read before deciding that reading yet another article about someone wealthy enough to have a staff helping them opt out of reality is a waste of my time, no matter how well written the article.
Change in a peer vacuum
On finding your true self in a peer vacuum:
To move to a city where you are not afraid to try something new because all the people that labeled who THEY think you are (parents, childhood friends) are not their to say “that’s not you” or “you’ve changed”. Well, maybe that person didn’t change but finally became who they really are.
Speaking of cool Etsy shops, elastiCo is
Speaking of cool Etsy shops, elastiCo is selling pillows and tshirts with the most popular Google News search terms printed on them.
What sort of people buy bespoke suits: “
What sort of people buy bespoke suits: “the extremely wealthy, the status-crazed, and those so minutely particular in their needs that no preexisting suit will do”. The author finds that during the course of writing the article, he may have turned into the minutely particular sort of bespoke suit buyer.
“The most famous [status detail on a bespoke suit] is working cuff holes. On most off-the-rack suits, that row of buttons on your cuff is simply sewn on, because this way you can move them up or down during alterations; once you’ve cut the buttonholes, you can’t make the sleeve shorter or longer without screwing up the look. Another area of obsession is the stitching. On the front buttonholes and the flower loop, it shouldn’t be too even; on the lapels, staggered ‘pick stitching’ is a big plus. When laymen claim they can smell bespoke from a mile away, most tend to mean these little signatures. But focusing on flourishes betrays the big idea. That idea is that you can ask for anything — 40 pockets, a sewn-in gun holster, a third leg — and, to a certain type of person, anything else is tyranny of the designer.”
See also: English Cut, the blog of a bespoke Saville Row tailor.
Fun photo spread from the July 2007 issue
Fun photo spread from the July 2007 issue of Vogue Italia called Super Mods Enter Rehab. I love all of the over-the-top no-underwear shots of models exiting cars.
Some Infinite Jest fashion notes: an Enfield
Some Infinite Jest fashion notes: an Enfield Tennis Academy tshirt from Neighborhoodies and…
Was the designer of Infinite Jest’s book cover influenced by the color palette of the Nikes that Andre Agassi wore in 1991? Compelling visual evidence is available at lonelysandwich.
Ellen Ugelstad’s photo series depicting people and
Ellen Ugelstad’s photo series depicting people and their shoes. The midsections? They are not needed.
Several of the web’s most popular sites (
Several of the web’s most popular sites (Digg, YouTube, MySpace, CNN) are using the mullet strategy (business up front, party in the rear) for content to attract both boisterous users and well-heeled advertisers. “They let users party, argue, and vent on the secondary pages” — that’s the party in the rear — “but professional editors keep the front page looking sharp” — the business up front.
A brief history of the tshirt, specifically
A brief history of the tshirt, specifically the ironic tee. “Whether you choose to admit it or not, chances are a critical reserve of self-esteem rests somewhere near the middle of your T-shirt drawer. For within this darkened, hidden quarter lies dormant a secret weapon so witty, so elusively allusive, or just so damn hip it finds itself swathing your chest on only the most important occasions.”
Threadless is selling tshirts with a pie
Threadless is selling tshirts with a pie chart of pies on it.
Ariel Levy tells us about her lesbian
Ariel Levy tells us about her lesbian wedding that wasn’t really a wedding (it was “a party about love”) and her struggle to find something she could wear for it. “I also didn’t feel okay about spending all my free time on the phone with the flower guy and the tent man, or about making little checklists of who was coming, and who was not coming, and who was staying at the Goodstone Inn. And I definitely did not feel okay about telling the sales staff of half the better clothing retailers in New York City that I needed something fetching to wear to my big fat gay wedding.”
Play dress-up with the Gucci spring 2007 collection.
Play dress-up with the Gucci spring 2007 collection. Drag and drop dresses, shoes, and handbags onto the model. Many other collections are available as well.
If you’re at a loss for something
If you’re at a loss for something to wear tomorrow, check out the Wardrobe Remix photo pool on Flickr…12,000+ photos of normal people showing off what they’re wearing. “i believe the best stylists walk the streets, not the photo sets, nor the backstage of the runways. the real innovators are you and me: real, fashionable people, men and women alike.”
Interview with Gretchen Ludwig about her dressing
Interview with Gretchen Ludwig about her dressing room photography. She started the project after she noticed her anti-advertising, anti-corporation self buying a lot of clothes from big corporations that advertise a lot. “The dressing room is not only a very private space, but it is also a space where consumers make most of their decisions. And it’s also mostly void of extraneous marketing ‘noise.’ You don’t have the trendy atmosphere, you don’t have the pressure of others watching and judging you.”
Sizing up
The Sartorialist recently went to a shop in Milan to get some new shirts. His salesperson didn’t even need to take any measurements:
Once I decided on which shirts I was going to buy I started toward the dressing room to try the shirt on for the sleeve alteration - this is where he really got me.
He just looks at me and says “what are you doing?”
“I’m trying the shirt on so you can shorten the sleeves” I said.
“It’s ok, I have it” he said.
“I’m really particular” I warned. To this point I had not said anything about my blog or anything about my background.
“I have it ” he said with a with a slight arrogance that comes from years of experience.
“Well, understand I want the length to be right here” I said pointing to the base of my wrist.
“I have it” he repeated.
“Ok, but if it is wrong you won’t have time to fix it before I leave Milan.” I warned again.
“No problem” he assured me.
Of course he got it just right:
I went back to the store two days later and damn! if the sleeve length wasn’t perfect!
I can’t recall if I’ve written about this on kottke.org before, but I had a similar experience when I went to buy a suit for my wedding. Meg and I walked into the store, talked briefly with a salesperson, telling him what I was looking for (wedding suit, black or dark grey, simple). He said, “I’ve got the perfect suit for you.” He turned on his heel and returned 5 minutes later with a simple black suit. I tried it on and it fit perfectly. The cut was just right for my body and the size was dead-on as well. Just to compare, I tried on 3-4 more suits — all simple and black/dark grey — and none of them were quite right, just like the man had said. I’d planned on looking at a few more places, but his expertise had convinced me that I’d found the right suit. It remains the only formal clothing I own that I feel completely comfortable in.
Update: The Sartorialist has more on the proper sleeve length. Most American men wear their sleeves too long.
Shoe-fitting fluoroscopes were used in the 30s, 40
Shoe-fitting fluoroscopes were used in the 30s, 40s, and 50s to x-ray customers’ feet to make sure their potential new shoes were fitting correctly. The machines were eventually banned because of radiation concerns, but not before causing some injuries to their operators. “Many shoe salespersons put their hands into the x-ray beam to squeeze the shoe during the fitting. As a result, one saleswoman who had operated a shoe fitting fluoroscope 10 to 20 times each day over a ten year period developed dermatitis of the hands.” (via that’s how it happened)
Vogue is adding blogs to their site
Vogue is adding blogs to their site but editor Anna Wintour hates the word “blog” so much that she’s got her staff working on alternate language. Wintour’s a little late to the party…everyone I know has been hating that word since 1999. (via fashionologie)
Profile of fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld, who
Profile of fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld, who admits he doesn’t know “what ‘normal’ means”.
For its Spring 2007 haute couture collection, Givenchy
For its Spring 2007 haute couture collection, Givenchy had only 29 customers. Price: if you have to ask, you probably can’t afford it. (via fashionologie)
My friends Zach and Youngna are in
My friends Zach and Youngna are in the NY Times this morning in an article about how difficult it is for “senior beauty analysts” and “vice presidents for global marketing” to produce and market products to twentysomethings who wouldn’t even trust a “senior beauty analyst” to watch their bag while they went for a pee. The Times also had to draw a distinction between Mr. Klein, Calvin and Mr. Klein, Zach: “no relation”.
Photo galleries of old ABA uniforms and pennants. (thx, jim)
Photo galleries of old ABA uniforms and pennants. (thx, jim)
Spending to save
Advertising Age reports (via gulfstream) that despite having spent as much as a reported $100 million on advertising and promotion, the (RED) campaign has raised only $18 million to fight AIDS in Africa. (RED) CEO Bobby Shriver responds by saying that the amount will soon be $25 million, they’re in it for the long haul, and that there are non-monetary benefits to all of the advertising — “A phenomenal benefit is that Gap, Apple, Sprint and other sales people are meeting Americans and explaining that 5,500 Africans dying daily of AIDS is preventable”.
The (RED) campaign strikes me as part of a larger trend in the US (and perhaps elsewhere too): the idea that if you, the consumer, spend normally (or even increase your spending), it is possible to break the law of conservation of energy and somehow save more money or lives. Other examples of the spend-to-save trend include the Discover Card Cashback Bonus program, the Bank of America Keep the Change program, and hundreds of retail promotions where, golly, if you spend another $20 on something you don’t need, you get a free something that you really don’t need.
It seems to me that if The Gap really cared about stopping HIV/AIDS in Africa, they would just donate the $7.8 million they spend on (RED) advertising to the Clinton Foundation. If Discover really cared about saving you money, they’d lower their APR to prime + 1.
I realize that the entire US economy is a house of cards kept standing by the escalation of spending and credit card debt by American consumers, but the sad fact is that to save money, you need to cut spending or increase income. And if you really want to help fight AIDS in Africa, instead of buying that (RED) Gap t-shirt for which Gap will donate 50% of its profit to The Global Fund, buy a cheaper one at American Apparel and send the $13 difference to the Global Fund yourself.
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