We quite enjoyed the towns of Takayama (sake-rubbed cows make great burgers) and Shirakawa-go (pretty thatched huts in a hilly setting, very touristy). Our best night was in Kyoto, where we ate at a restaurant recommended by our B&B and ended up hanging out at the bar where the restaurant guys went after work. Until 4am. Temple-gazing the next day in 95 degree weather was less than fun, but we made lifelong friends that night.

So yeah. Go to a small restaurant, close it down, and ask them where to go for a whiskey. That'll probably work anywhere!

Take the train to an onsen somewhere up in the mountains. Tokyo was great, but visiting small towns gave me a better feeling for the country.

Don’t skip Hiroshima.

Go to Kura, the conveyor belt sushi chain. Gorge yourself on fatty tuna for cheap.

Exciting! We’ve been a few times now and your itinerary looks good. My only suggestion is to try to get to the Seto Art Islands. They’re incredibly beautiful and the Teshima Art Museum is one of the most moving spaces I’ve ever set foot in.

The Shinyokohama Ramen Museum in Yokohama is a delight. Touristy? You bet! But that's you. Bonus: bullet train ride from Tokyo.

It is absolutely critical that when in Kyoto, you stay at Shiraume.

Ebimaru Ramen in Tokyo is highly recommended (try the lobster ramen).

I am still not sure this wasn't a fever dream but try to be in Tokyo on a Sunday to go to Yoyogi Park. I went there in 1989 when I was on my Midshipman cruise and after partying in Roppongi Saturday night (we met Alyssa Milano, and her bodyguards/chaperones, who was apparently "big in Japan"), we went to the park and saw bands lined up pretty much right next to each other performing everything from country to reggae to death metal, with the occasional roller skating team or some such act sprinkled in. It was surreal especially since their generators (for their amps) usually drowned out the music.

+1 to Takayama (though that was 15 yrs ago) and the Studio Ghibli museum is delightful.

teamlab Planets in Tokyo was a highlight for my family. https://www.teamlab.art/e/planets/

Find a temple and sit quietly in the garden for a while. For us a rain-soaked day turned into a few glorious moments of contemplation and rest.

Ask Craig. Failing that, Hiroshima, small-ish cities in the hills, and get hold of a bike whenever you're in a city. If you see food in a window you think looks ok, stop and eat. AI translation works well enough now to use it so go anywhere and ask with your phone. At least that's how my wife & I approached it (apart form the ask Craig bit). It's the easiest 'most foreign' place in the world to see.

One of the high points of my trip was going to a Hanshin Tigers baseball game - Japanese fans are intense, and it was some of the most fun I’ve ever had at a ballgame.

For Kyoto, I recommend visiting the Fushimi-Inari Taisha Shrine to walk through the torii gates. If you do the full walk, it's quite relaxing and not too strenuous.

We adored our time in Hakone, including the excellent Open Air Museum that we stumbled upon. It is beautiful mountain town, home to a bunch of ryokan, onsen, a lake with a ship crossing, cable car, and more. Apparently there is also a great view of Mt. Fuji but it was cloudy so we couldn't see it. It didn't matter to us, though; our visit to Hakone was still the highlight of our trip!

+1 for Hiroshima and a day trip to Miyajima. I’ biased since I loved there for several years, but people who visit generally appreciate that they did. The main shrine on Miyajima is cool, but my favorite place in the island is right next to it at the top of a small hill - don’t miss Hokoku-jinja (Senjokaku Pavilion).

Otherwise since you’re there for a few weeks I would consider renting a bike and traveling the Shimanami-kaido. It’s a popular cycling route that crosses several islands from Onomichi on the main island over to Imabari on Shikoku island. You cross some tall bridges and get amazing views of the inland sea. Plus it’s off the main tourist route. Stay at a small guest house halfway through and chill.

Just a note that Kyoto has become so westernized that it’s lost a lot of its charm. I would recommend staying for a night or two tops - see a couple sites that pique your interest and move on.

If you have any interest in making things, the carpentry tool museum in Kobe (not too far from Osaka) is one of my favorite things in Japan.

Also, get a bike. Then, bike without destination, letting your curiosity drive you. Best way to find serendipitous stuff in a country full of serendipity.

Leave room in your itinirary so you can extend your stay in a place when you feel like it. OTH don’t diddle when it disappoints and move on — Japan is big, lots of things to experience. Take local trains, stop at smaller towns, visit their museums (alle museums in Japan are interesting — when I spent a month there earlier this year I visited around 20 and everyone had something amazing on show, like the Tokyo Metro Museum, or the Japanese Sword Museum).
Choose a theme that is personal to you. Eg I have become interested in specialty coffee and Japan has so many venues catering to that; I tried finding at least one coffee bar in each city I visited and that gave my trip more purpose (less of a touristy feeling, right?).
Japan is awesome and I plan on visiting again next year, possibly end of autumn — the climate can be killing in summer. I may even go skying, which I have not done for fifteen years…

If you're in Osaka, you can take the train to Nara Park (takes an hour or so). It's where the bowing deer are, among a huge area of beautiful shrines and temples. Definitely one of my more memorable visits.

Two notes from me:
- Most tourists get a Japan Rail pass (recommend) and most tourist stay in a fairly narrow range of what's possible (I'd imagine Tokyo-Hiroshima being the fat center of that distribution). But the Shinkansen is fast, fun, and will take you far. You can without too much trouble get far north or far south. If you have that time and inclination, consider Kumamoto and, connected by ferry, Yakushima -- the beautiful island depicted in Ghibli's Princess Mononoke. Along the route, you can hit up some of the more remote hits, like the very Onsen-forward Beppu.
- A highly specific recommendation: this Airbnb -- an old tea farmer's house run by a lovely couple. It's bliss, as is the food.

I thought the Hokosai museum in Sumida (in Tokyo) was kind of underrated. It's maybe not as exciting as other things in Tokyo but I liked looking at the (replica of the) 7 meter long “Scenery on Both Banks of the Sumida River” scroll and also then looking at the actual Sumida River.

I liked Hakone too. There's a lot to see and do in a small area. Amazing sculpture garden, good onsens, volcanic field, many kinds of transport, possible views of Fuji.

In Tokyo, we stayed in Akasaka, which is very central but because it's not on Yamanote line, it's much less expensive and less busy than Shibuya, Ginza, Harajuku, whatever. There's a nice shrine right there.

The Ghibli Museum is nice especially if you have a child under 12 (they can't go on the cat bus after 12yo). It's difficult to get tickets, so plan ahead.

We liked Matsumoto for a mountain town.

In Kyoto, I'd say don't bother with the bamboo forest, it's so so so busy.

Our best experience was staying in a very out of the way surfing town in an airbnb family home that was excellent. If you think you'll go to Aichi area, I can share that info.

If you make your way out towards Hiroshima, be sure to stop in Onomichi for a day or two. It’s off the tourist-beaten path and well worth the visit.

My daughter and I spent a day there a few years ago based on a recommendation from Craig. We met this lovely woman shortly after we arrived.

Spend some time wandering around the waterfront. Take to the hills and get a better view of the inland sea. Rent a bike and visit some of the other nearby islands.

Tokyo Greeters! You hang out with a local and they show you parts of Tokyo they like. You can tell them the sort of thing you're interested in if you like, or you can just leave yourself entirely in their hands. It's free, the greeters just do it because they like to meet people and show people around the city that they love. This was one of the nicest parts of our recent trip to Tokyo. (Though maybe sort of redundant if you're hanging out with Craig Mod?)

I've lived in Kyoto for like a decade now, and might be around to meet up for a meal or something! Drop me an email or something if you're interested.

Kyoto is weird because the touristy places are very packed with tourists, but also most of them are genuinely worth it. Kiyomizu-dera Temple (and the nearby Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka streets) and Fushimi-Inari Taisha Shrine fall into this category. The latter is open 24 hours a day, so I recommend visiting either fairly early or fairly late to avoid the crowds.

ABSOLUTELY SKIP Kinkakuji ("golden pavilion") and the Arashiyama "bamboo grove" (it's like 50 m long and much of it is closed to non-rickshaw traffic, and is mostly only worth visiting to use as an influencer photo backdrop). I also have complicated feelings about the deer in Nara, in part because they are just LOADED with ticks.

Arashiyama itself can be worth a visit for the fall colors or to climb up the mountain to the monkey park, though, and if you're willing to go a bit further, Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple in northern Arashiyama has a lot of charming, often goofy statues, many of which were carved by laypeople in the eighties.

In Kyoto, the Philosopher's Path is, I think, undervisited if anything. Very charming walk along a canal through a quiet neighborhood. Additionally, if you're into craft or antique markets, write these down just in case your timing happens to work out:
• Hyakumanben craft market on the 15th of each month (at Hyakumanben Temple about 10 min. east of Demachiyanagi station)
• Kitano Tenmangu antique market on the 25th of each month (at Kitano Tenmangu Shrine, out west — it's also a fairly large Shinto shrine that's rather pretty on its own, and there are a handful of pretty good restaurants nearby and the delightful "Yokai Street")
• Kamigamo Shrine craft market on the fourth Sunday of each month (at Kamigamo Shrine, in kind of north central Kyoto)

Osaka is home to a cool long covered shopping street called Tenjinbashi-suji that is mostly everyday stuff, rather than the sort of central commercial district shopping you'd find in the Shinsaibashi-suji shopping street.

Tenjinbashi-suji is also home to the Museum of Housing and Living, which features a life-size 19th-century townscape you can walk around and explore, and often there are multilingual volunteer guides there who can show you all sorts of cool stuff. Definitely recommend.

Also nearby that is a major Tenmangu shrine, maybe the main one nationwide, or at least in Osaka, dedicated to Tenjin/Sugawara no Michizane, who is kind of the god of learning and academics.

Osaka's Amerika-mura area is fun to walk around, and don't miss The Silver Ball Planet, a pinball arcade with 100+ tables both old and very new. Pinball was absolutely not a thing in Japan, so it's cool and weird to see such a big collection there.

If you're looking for hikes or walks, I recommend looking into the Yama no Be no Michi in rural Nara. It's maybe a full-day thing but you can also do half of it and still wind up in reasonable proximity to a train station. It's a pleasant enough walk along a fairly flat trail that takes you through farm fields and past little shrines and temples, and there's even I think a swordsmith along the way? Neat little thing overall.

Here is a quick collection of Received Wisdom about Japan that is no longer true:

• You can now use credit cards at like 95% of places that have cash registers. Basically only small non-chain restaurants will be cash-only nowadays, and even then a lot of the time they'll still have a card reader. If you do need cash, just use your overseas ATM card at a 7-Eleven or post office ATM.

• The Japan Rail pass is now a terrible value, and it's almost impossible to even break even, much less save money, unless you build an insane itinerary focused on taking long train trips on a roughly daily basis. You are almost certainly better off just buying tickets on a per-trip basis. (Conveniently, if you have an iPhone, you can go into the Wallet app and create a virtual Suica or Icoca prepaid card for tapping in and out of train stations, regardless of what country your phone was sold in.)

• The tattoo situation is evolving. Local neighborhood public baths (sento) no longer ban tattoos, as a nationwide policy change that happened several years ago. However, nicer baths at hotels may still have a no-visible-tattoos policy. Obviously foreign people are also much less likely to face harassment for tattoos, since they're used as a plausible-deniability stand-in for "no organized crimers" and that association is pretty specifically regarding Japanese people.

• I don't know where the idea that you can't get fluoridated toothpaste in Japan came from, but it hasn't been true for at least a decade and a half now. If anything, it's harder to find non-fluoridated toothpaste in Japan than in the US, possibly because Japanese tap water isn't fluoridated.

KANAZAWA RECOMMENDATIONS:

• Get Kanazawa curry at Champion Curry. It is like if you took the difference between Asian curry and Japanese curry, and then doubled it. It is thick and rich and routinely topped with a fried thing and you eat it with a fork. Absolutely beautiful.

• Kenrokuen Garden really is beautiful and wonderful, and if you go real early in the morning you can even get in for free. It's also right by Kanazawa Castle, which is a reconstruction, so they did a bunch of cool stuff like cutaway views of walls so you can see how they're built, and they have a room that's just sort of all about the elaborate wood joinery techniques they used (including little models you can put together)

• Higashi Chaya District is one of those "tourist destination but for good reason" places, because it's full of picturesque old streets and charming shops. Skip the gold leaf soft serve (not only can you not taste the gold leaf, you can't even feel it) but if you're into coffee the nearby Nonstop Coffee is very good.

• Himito is a very cool art installation place, full of dried flowers and carved fruit peels turned into art. I don't want to say too much more, because it's worth experiencing for yourself.

• The Ishikawa Prefectural Library is kind of on the outskirts of town, so it'd be a bike ride (sign up for the Machi-nori bikeshare system they have there!) or a taxi or bus ride probably, but if you're into architecture it's absolutely stunning. Basically like a stadium arena but for books. Somehow the one giant room that the library consists of manages to combine a sense of vast openness and secluded privacy in the seating areas around it.

• If you're in Kanazawa before it's over, Go for Kogei is a big installation art event with a bunch of locations in Kanazawa and the not-THAT-far-away Toyama City. (And if you go to Toyama City, don't miss the glass art museum there!)

• Omicho Market is definitely worth walking around! It feels like a much more "still actually visited by locals at all" version of Kyoto's Nishiki Market (which has converted almost entirely into a tourist destination nowadays).

• If you're into space exploration, Cosmo Isle Hakui, up north a bit (accessible by train I think?) is an incredible museum. It's in a town with UFO folklore, but the museum is pretty much entirely legit. Stuff like a Soviet space capsule, an unused second unit of the Mars rover, etc. Also the town has flying-saucer-shaped street lights, or did when I was last there. So that's fun.

• If the leaves have started changing color by the time you're there (fall colors in Japan are generally late November or even early December), Natadera Temple is astonishingly worth the trip out to it. I'll leave it at that.

• If you're into car history, there's a place in southeastern Ishikawa called the Motorcar Museum of Japan, that's just kind of a huge collection of vehicles, most of them everyday mass-production cars (rather than special rare things, though they do have a US presidential limousine and a London double-decker bus, if memory serves). It's in the same general broad region as the hot spring resort towns of Kaga Onsen, like Yamanaka Onsen and Yamashiro Onsen. Those might be a bit too remote to be worth the trip unless there's an overnight stay?

My wife and I visited Tokyo and Kyoto over a 10 days in July and absolutely enjoyed the experience. My personal highlights:
- Yakult Swallows baseball game in Tokyo. It looks like you'll be there after the season wraps up, but games there are something akin to a Premier League soccer match - spontaneous and sustained cheering for the entire game, players have individualized chants and songs - it was a fantastic experience.
- Florilège in Tokyo. I stumbled across an article in the NYT that detailed the top 50 restaurants in the world. There were three Tokyo restaurants on the list (Florilège clocked in at #36), and was the single best meal I've had in my life. It was also a surprisingly reasonable price, expecially when compared with the other two Tokyo restaurants on the list.
- I also utterly adored Wim Wenders' 2023 movie Perfect Days. We did a self-guided walking tour of sites from the movie, including all of the related spots on the Tokyo Toilet Project. It's way more interesting than it sounds on the surface, and was a fantastic way to tour Tokyo away from its most touristy spots.

In Kyoto, definitely make time for the Nishiki Market. It is a foody heaven.

The Takayama Harvest Festival (oct. 9-10) is probably sold out, but really worth it. Also hike the Nakesendo trail. Oku Japan offers self-guided tours of various lengths, with overnight stays at numerous traditional Japanese inns along the way. If you have suitcases, there are various sevices (some have operated for centuries) that can send them to your next destination for a reasonable fee, so you hike hands with just a small backpack.

A great way to get to Hiroshima would be to get off the Shinkansen in Onomichi (we spent a night at the lovely U2 cycle hotel, on the harbour – great just for a coffee as well) and cycle across the islands via the Tobishima Kaido route (once you get to Kure, you can hop on the local train to get to Hiroshima). It's quieter than the very popular Shimanami Kaido route and if you have the legs (or an ebike) to do some of the smaller side roads on the steep slopes, the views from the top are really amazing. We very much enjoyed the little roads going through mikan orchards on the Osaki-Shimozima island.

If you go to the Fushimi Inari Taisha temple near Kyoto, I'd recommend going up the mountain through the back route and come down the main route (with all the red gates). This way you can visit the Oiwa Wood Carving studio (https://narutakioinari.jimdoweb.com/foreign-languages/english/). We spent a wonderful hour with Oiwa-san showing us around and telling us about his beautiful work (he speaks English very well). His studio is just before the Oiwa Okami Shrine.

Also, Takayama is a great place to go to as well (the Hida Folk Village especially), and I wouldn't miss Ghibli Museum in Tokyo, if you've never been (I'd go again anytime, especially for the seasonal short films you can only watch there :).

Hope you'll have a great time!

Sushi dai at Toyosu. Amazing omakase experience. Gotta line up early to get a reservation. Like 5am early. Can do that after seeing the tuna auction.

The cave music bar in Shibuya. Newer music bar but amazing.
https://www.instagram.com/the_music_bar?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet&igsh=a3Myb3h1d21hbHBz

What a great thread! I'll go more general guidance, as so many here already have great recommendations.
Try new things. One of my favorite experiences in Tokyo was a little restaurant, one of those ones with the vending machines for the food ticket with pictures. Small place, very bright, U-shaped counter. No one spoke English, I don't speak Japanese. The kitchen staff sing a little song when they bring the food up. The sauces weren't labeled. It was awesome.
I also thought the two small areas of Tokyo I walked around (one was a bit of a suburban neighborhood) were immensely walkable. (Granted if they weren't I would not have walked them.)
I was in Fukuoka for a week for work, and it has a great park with a lake, a garden, and a wonderful but small modern art museum which had pieces of art from many Western artists I knew of but I had never seen these pieces (I guess they haven't travelled out in a while). The staff was really nice and the lunch was just beautiful. (Yes, the lunch.) I am not saying you should go to Fukuoka, but these weren't things on the tourist path really (I mean I don't think Fukuoka is). The downtown underground shopping area was amazing (I love to see foreign cultures in different ways, grocery stores and shopping are fun approaches).
So just be open to new things, don't be afraid to fail, take time to go slow and reflect (but yes also take the high speed train which is not slow!), and be humble about it. I love Japan in part because it is modern but not Western, so to Americans it is both recognizable and strange at the same time. The experience forces you to negotiate with your own cultural background and assumptions about how things are done.

When I lived in Tokyo, I found that politeness and curiosity overcame any lack of language. And that even in the densest parts of Tokyo, small neighborhoods exist. Leave the main streets and walk down the alleys , and visit the izakaya (local, often tiny, pubs) and shrines you find.

I was lucky to get to spend a semester in Japan while in college. That was nearly 30 years ago though, so other's recommendations are more up to date I'm sure. But some things already said I remember positively are 1) Hiroshima, 2) Yoyogi Park in Tokyo, and 3) the temples in Kyoto.

If I were to go back now, one thing I'd add is seeking out places or shops centered around my own hobbies or interests. Coffee, cuisine, cocktails, watches, tools, books, etc. Whatever it might be, Japanese people and culture seem to be able to pursue an interest to such an intense degree.

Wow - So many fantastic suggestions. Is there a way you can keep this info available for those of us who may go in the near future?
Much appreciated.
Suz from Vancouver

Definitely second a lot of these, esp Hiroshima and Miyajima. Don't miss Hiroshima okonomiyaki while you're there. I'll throw in a few more random, general suggestions:

• When you’re walking around Tokyo, remember to look up sometimes. A lot of shops are not on street-level and there may be signs hanging off the building you want to investigate.
• It’s easy to fall in love with the trains and the metro because they make it so easy to get around, but depending on where you’re going, it may not be much more work/time to walk between destinations. Don’t be afraid to cut a more direct path. You’re almost guaranteed to walk by something interesting.
• It may be less of an issue in October but pick up some Biore sunscreen in a supermarket or drugstore.
• It’s super easy to pay with cards and phones and different electronic options, but I think it’s way more fun to pay with cash and interact with people. You’ll need a coin purse, for sure.
• Treat yourself to a hot drink from a vending machine. Some of them have 100Y stickers and have cheaper drinks in them.
• Onsen and ryokan are where it’s at, but there are nice sento all around the big cities and can really take the edge off a day of walking.
• The Japanese NA beers are really, really good.

My family went for the first time this past winter. My kids made fun of me endlessly, but as an American who has only studied European languages, I found that cramming some time learning the very basics of Japanese language (Duolingo for me) was helpful. I would not say that I "learned" anything in that time, but I was able to start to recognize sounds and basic terms. For example, when the subway made an announcement about the next station, I could recognize a station name. In my experience, if I have zero knowledge of a language the sounds will all blur together and I can't even repeat back a proper noun. A small amount of exposure helped with the "stickiness" of names and terms. I have travelled in many European countries and not had a problem deciphering things eventually, but the distance between the sound of Japanese and my English-language brain was too much without some practice. I think it helped my appreciation.

We spent a nice two weeks in Tokyo and Kyoto, wandering fairly aimlessly, and I will do the same again sometime. Enjoy!

Just wanted to pop in with a quick thank you for all of the recommendations in this thread, via email, and on social — you have all been so generous with your time and experience. Thank you! 💞

We had a fantastic experience with a Tokyo Memories food tour in 2019. We did the tour early in our trip, and in addition to being an unforgettable experience we absolutely could not have had on our own, we also learned many helpful tips that helped make the rest of our trip significantly better. Specifically, the guide recommended we commit to memory the word "osusume" which means "recommendation" or, in context, "What do you recommend?" This helped us more times than we would have expected as we stumbled into small restaurants around the country where nobody spoke English.

The guide also helpfully pointed out that there are some restaurants and bars in Japan where they just don't welcome Westerners. He advised that we just be prepared to say "Okay!" and move on somewhere else, and don't take it personally. This was a rare experience for us--most places were very welcoming--but knowing this ahead of time helped for the couple of times when it did.

Oh, and look into the luggage forwarding service. It's like magic.

I was fortunate enough to live in Japan for several years… My best suggestion is to just get out and explore as much as you can. And eat as much as you can! Pick up onigiri from FamilyMart and walk around until you find something cool.

One of the most fun experiences I had in Japan was on a day exploring near Tokyo when I stumbled on one of the giant roller slides that seem to be everywhere in Japan. Spent 10 minutes walking up a mountain, then an exhilarating two minutes, rolling/sliding back down. No one else around. It was the serendipity that really made it a special experience, though. Felt like it was a secret that only I had discovered. I hope you are able to find some amazing moments of your own on this trip!

Wow - great answers. I have never been to Japan, but my son and daughter-in-law went on their honeymoon. His only advice to me: "Once you've seen one temple, you've kind of seen them all". That said, someone above recommended Kiyomizu-Dera, and so I must share a great piece of music by Matthew Halsall and the Gondwana Orchestra named Kiyomizu-Dera presumably inspired by the temple (I recommend Halsall in general, but this is one of my favorites)

on our last trip, we rented a car and drove out to Matsumoto from Tokyo. not everyone wants to drive on their trips, especially in a country with a fantastic rail system, but we actually really enjoyed it. everyone is a pretty polite driver and the highway stops are a fun experience.

Matsumoto is a cool mountain town, with decent proximity to a very popular national park, Kamikochi. i would say if you want to do Kamikochi it is probably better to try and stay there as it gets really crowded during the day (at least when we were there in the fall, an admittedly busy time of year for the park).

a lot of other really great tips here. go to an onsen SOMEHOW and booking a hotel with a private bath is a good way to get around tattoo rules. getting out of the cities is a great way to get away from other tourists and see what makes the country so special. Tokyo is maybe my favorite city in the world, there is just never ending exploration.

Meiji Mura outdoor architecture museum is stunning, including a large portion of Frank Lloyd Wright’s Imperial Hotel.

Do luxuriate in the abundance of really great convenience stores across the cites. Great places to grab a quick meal or snack, with fresh food that you won't see in an average American store.

If you happen to be in Kyoto on Oct.22, you could see the Jidai Matsuri ("festival of ages"), a reverse-chronological parade of Japanese history, going back to Kyoto's founding in 794. I might skip a meeting to attend with lab members this year.

Every evening in Tokyo at the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building they do a series of short projection light shows on the building. Some are pop like Pac Mac or Godzilla, there are also art-y ones, too. Program changes constantly. View from across the street at the Tokyo Metropolitan Assembly Building's below-grade outdoor plaza where they also broadcast the accompanying soundtrack. Tokyo Projection Mapping Project

You can also go up to the top of the Metropolitan Government Building for free and get a great view of the city, grab a coffee, maybe hear some piano playing.

Also check out the What's Doing Today and What's Doing This Week in TimeOut magazine. We found some local festivals we never would have known about otherwise. That was a great way to experience very local city life. There are versions for most major cities. Here's Tokyo: Things to do in Tokyo today