homeabout kottke.orgarchives + tagsmembership!
aboutarchives + tagsmembership!
aboutarchivesmembers!

Modern big wave surfing requires a knowledge

posted by Jason Kottke   Jan 13, 2008

Modern big wave surfing requires a knowledge of oceanography and wave dynamics…and quick wits out on the water.

After committing to a wave, the surfer must confront the sheer tonnage of hurtling water and hit a 10-foot-wide slot of the best spot to launch a ride with pinpoint timing, a maneuver that Washburn has described as akin to “trying to place a Dixie cup on the horn of a charging rhino.”

We Work Remotely